Harley VL - Clutch Parts & Tips
Dialing in your VL clutch can be challenging. It’s not hard to go from a clutch that slips to a clutch that drags. There are many components involved in the proper adjustment of your clutch. In this post we’ll focus on the primary clutch assembly at the transmission.
Part Number
|
Part Name
|
2500-19
|
Roller bearing washer (thrust washer, hardened, comes in different sizes to dial in end play and avoid clutch drag or slop) (part number 2499-19 for a set) |
301-15, 305-15
|
Roller bearings: retainer (2) and rollers .726 long (12) |
2472-30
|
Clutch hub shell & sprocket |
2481-30
|
Lined friction disc (3) |
2487-30
|
Steel inner disc (2) |
2479-30
|
Releasing Disc |
2489-30
|
Drive disk (hub with keyway) |
2508-30
|
Clutch Spring Guide Collar (12) |
2511-30
|
Clutch Springs (9) |
2507-30
|
Clutch Spring Screws (6) (also used for adjusting tension) |
2445-30
|
Clutch Pull Rod - 13 9/16" long (Be careful when buying because the earlier rod for the J series bikes looks exactly the same but its 1" shorter and won't work on a VL!) |
2448-32
|
Pull rod bearing complete (or three pieces as below) |
2452-26, 2453-26, 2454-26
|
Pull rod bearing three piece: outer ball race, inner ball race, retainer & balls |
2460-33
|
Pull rod oil retainer |
2461-33
|
Pull rod cork washer |
2468-30
|
Take-up spring |
2505-30
|
Actuating plate |
2462-15
|
Pull rod adjusting collar |
2466-15
|
Pull rod lock washer |
0125
|
Pull rod adjusting nuts (2) |
Tips for disassembly and cleaning
Tips for reassembly
As a final test after everything is assembled and adjusted
With the primary and rear drive chains in place put the bike in gear but keep the clutch disengaged as if you were about to shift again. Then use your hand to kick over the starter. The starter should be move freely with very little drag. This lets you know that the clutch is releasing all the way the pedal is depressed.
Now put the bike in neutral, engage the clutch and when you kick over the starter there should be no slipping and the motor should turn over solidly. This tells you the clutch is fully engaging.
If there is drag when you kick the bike over then you need to look at what is causing the clutch to bind. Things that can cause the clutch to drag are:
This article was written by Eric Snyder. Please comment or email with corrections or suggestions. If you want to re-use this content please provide attribution and link back to this post.
- Buy a puller! It's one of those tools you just realize are worth every penny even if you only use a few times a year. After a trans rebuild you'll use it many times as you dial in your clutch and endplay.
- When removing the tension adjusting screws set the clutch flat on the table so the springs and plates don’t go flying across the room.
- Clean the plates with brake cleaner to remove oil and build up. Ensure your friction plates are clean, dry and have some material left on them.
- Ensure the tabs on the friction plates are not notched, they should be straight so they won’t bind with the shell. You can file them so the edges are flat.
- Ensure the metal slots inside of the shell are not notched, they too should be straight or the plates could bind.
- Lightly file the face of the drive disc hub (the side facing the engine)
- Clean up the edges and faces of the metal plates to remove any major ridges that could bind
Tips for reassembly
- Make sure the plates are assembled in the proper order
- Reassemble the springs and plates making sure to avoid putting springs on the nubs
- Use a C-clamp to compress the springs so you can get the screws started
- Get all screws started and then snug them up equally after all screws are in place.
- If the screws are too tight your clutch will grip when you want it to slip and shifting will be very hard and the gears will grind.
- If the screws are too loose they can vibrate loose and come apart (this happened to me!)
- You want the screws to be flush with the spring plate, there should be no gap or hole visible. If you run your finger across the plate you should just barely feel the end of the screw
- Torque the large clutch hub nut down to 75lbs
- Follow the Rider's manual for adjustment procedure.
As a final test after everything is assembled and adjusted
With the primary and rear drive chains in place put the bike in gear but keep the clutch disengaged as if you were about to shift again. Then use your hand to kick over the starter. The starter should be move freely with very little drag. This lets you know that the clutch is releasing all the way the pedal is depressed.
Now put the bike in neutral, engage the clutch and when you kick over the starter there should be no slipping and the motor should turn over solidly. This tells you the clutch is fully engaging.
If there is drag when you kick the bike over then you need to look at what is causing the clutch to bind. Things that can cause the clutch to drag are:
- too much play in clutch lever arm or pull rod, check arm play and tighten adjusting nuts
- Thrust washer too thick, reduce in .005 increments
- Friction plates are unable to move freely within club shell (check slots and plate tabs)
This article was written by Eric Snyder. Please comment or email with corrections or suggestions. If you want to re-use this content please provide attribution and link back to this post.
