Where to find parts - Harley VL - Ancestor Garage

I need parts for a VL

What kind of motorcycle is that? It's a VL. What's a VL?

There are a few places that sell reproduction parts for the 1930s Harley Davidson V/VL series motorcycles but regardless of what those Google results tell you sorry, J&P Cycles and RevZilla are not one of them (they do sell great parts for '90s Evos though).

Most of the places that sell reproduction VL parts don't have the latest website technology out there so you are often better off giving them a call if you have questions or can't find exactly what you are looking for. There is a pretty steady listing of VL parts on Ebay just search for "harley vl". I have seen just about every possible part for sale at different times from different sellers over the last couple years. Some ok prices to be found amongst overpriced parts. Don't be afraid to message people to ask for a lower price. You will also often find parts mislabeled with inaccurate descriptions with wrong years listed so study the photos, ask questions and do your research.

A great example of a mistake I made buying on Ebay, I bought a complete VL transmission that looked complete in photos but it was actually a mix of JD parts, early VL and late VL parts that didn't work together. It had an early side/starter/kicker with a later case. It fit and looked fine but the early starter gears are not constant mesh and the case is missing a way to release the starter gears. It also had a JD pull rod which does look exactly the same as a VL pull rod but it is one inch shorter. I also bought a complete clutch that was completely useless. I ended up parting-out both purchases, salvaging what I could and learning way more about the VL transmission and clutch than I ever thought possible. The learning experience was worth more than the sum of the parts.

As far as reproduction parts go, in general there are some really good companies out there selling high quality parts. How they make some of the more obscure, complicated parts in small batches is still a bit of a mystery to me but I'm not complaining.

If you are looking for new, basic bolts and nuts type hardware, Colony Machine makes a lot of the common parts but beware sometimes parts say they are for all years of VL but aren't quite the same as the early VL hardware. The best and cheapest place to buy Colony parts is online from Lowbrow Customs

Harbor Vintage	http://www.harborvintage.com
Good Old Motorcycle Company	https://www.thegoodoldmotorcyclepartscompany.com
Competition Distributing	http://www.competitiondist.com
Replicant Metals	http://replicantmetals.com
VL Heaven	https://www.vlheaven.com
Mike's Indian Parts	http://www.mikesindianparts.com
Geloman sheet metal	http://geloman.com
W & W Cycles	https://www.wwag.com
Tom’s NOS parts	http://www.tomsnosparts.com
AAOK	https://aaok.com

Do you know of another good website that has VL parts?
Let us know in the comments section below.

Clutch Parts & Adjusting Tips - Harley VL - Ancestor Garage

Harley VL - Clutch Parts & Tips

Dialing in your VL clutch can be challenging. It’s not hard to go from a clutch that slips to a clutch that drags. There are many components involved in the proper adjustment of your clutch. In this post we’ll focus on the primary clutch assembly at the transmission. 

Part Number	Part Name
2500-19	Roller bearing washer (thrust washer, hardened, comes in different sizes to dial in end play and avoid clutch drag or slop) (part number 2499-19 for a set)
301-15, 305-15	Roller bearings: retainer (2) and rollers .726 long (12)
2472-30	Clutch hub shell & sprocket
2481-30	Lined friction disc (3)
2487-30	Steel inner disc (2)
2479-30	Releasing Disc
2489-30	Drive disk (hub with keyway)
2508-30	Clutch Spring Guide Collar (12)
2511-30	Clutch Springs (9)
2507-30	Clutch Spring Screws (6) (also used for adjusting tension)
2445-30	Clutch Pull Rod - 13 9/16" long (Be careful when buying because the earlier  rod for the J series bikes looks exactly the same but its 1" shorter and won't work on a VL!)
2448-32	Pull rod bearing complete (or three pieces as below)
2452-26, 2453-26, 2454-26	Pull rod bearing three piece: outer ball race, inner ball race, retainer & balls
2460-33	Pull rod oil retainer
2461-33	Pull rod cork washer
2468-30	Take-up spring
2505-30	Actuating plate
2462-15	Pull rod adjusting collar
2466-15	Pull rod lock washer
0125	Pull rod adjusting nuts (2)

Tips for disassembly and cleaning

• Buy a puller! It's one of those tools you just realize are worth every penny even if you only use a few times a year. After a trans rebuild you'll use it many times as you dial in your clutch and endplay.
• When removing the tension adjusting screws set the clutch flat on the table so the springs and plates don’t go flying across the room.
• Clean the plates with brake cleaner to remove oil and build up. Ensure your friction plates are clean, dry and have some material left on them. 
• Ensure the tabs on the friction plates are not notched, they should be straight so they won’t bind with the shell. You can file them so the edges are flat. 
• Ensure the metal slots inside of the shell are not notched, they too should be straight or the plates could bind. 
• Lightly file the face of the drive disc hub (the side facing the engine) 
• Clean up the edges and faces of the metal plates to remove any major ridges that could bind

Tips for reassembly

• Make sure the plates are assembled in the proper order 
•  Reassemble the springs and plates making sure to avoid putting springs on the nubs  
• Use a C-clamp to compress the springs so you can get the screws started 
•  Get all screws started and then snug them up equally after all screws are in place. 
• If the screws are too tight your clutch will grip when you want it to slip and shifting will be very hard and the gears will grind. 
• If the screws are too loose they can vibrate loose and come apart (this happened to me!) 
•  You want the screws to be flush with the spring plate, there should be no gap or hole visible. If you run your finger across the plate you should just barely feel the end of the screw 
• Torque the large clutch hub nut down to 75lbs 
• Follow the Rider's manual for adjustment procedure. 

As a final test after everything is assembled and adjusted
With the primary and rear drive chains in place put the bike in gear but keep the clutch disengaged as if you were about to shift again. Then use your hand to kick over the starter. The starter should be move freely with very little drag. This lets you know that the clutch is releasing all the way the pedal is depressed.

Now put the bike in neutral, engage the clutch and when you kick over the starter there should be no slipping and the motor should turn over solidly. This tells you the clutch is fully engaging.

 If there is drag when you kick the bike over then you need to look at what is causing the clutch to bind. Things that can cause the clutch to drag are:

• too much play in clutch lever arm or pull rod, check arm play and tighten adjusting nuts
• Thrust washer too thick, reduce in .005 increments
• Friction plates are unable to move freely within club shell (check slots and plate tabs)

This article was written by Eric Snyder. Please comment or email with corrections or suggestions. If you want to re-use this content please provide attribution and link back to this post. 

Lubrication Chart - Harley VL - Rider's Manual

Greasin' the VL

This how-to article applies to 1930-1936 Harley Davidson V series motorcycles and originally appeared in the rider's manual

Lubricate with	Part of Motorcycle
Alemite - One Week Every 500 miles	22 - Brake Schackle Bearings 23 - Spring Fork Plunger (No Alemite on later machines - use motor oil) 27 - Seat Bar Hinge 30 - Front Brake Cover Bushing 31 - Fork Rockers 43 - Rear Brake Hub
Alemite - Two Weeks of Every 750 miles	21 - Front Brake Operating Stud 35 - Clutch Pedal 37 - Transmission Main Bearing 41 - Rear Brake Operating Stud
Motor Oil - Every 500 Miles	24 - Front Brake Hand Lever 29 - Front Brake Clevis Joint 32 - Front Brake Control Cable 33 - Shift Control Joints 34, 39 - Clutch Rod Connections 38, 42 - Rear Brake Rod Connection
Motor Oil - Occasionally	28 - Rear Mudguard Hinge
As Needed - See manual for usage	36 - Oil Drain Lever 40 - Rear Chain 26 - Hand Pump

Troubleshooting Tips - Harley VL - Rider's Manual

Troubleshooting the VL

This how-to article applies to 1930-1936 Harley Davidson V series motorcycles and originally appeared in the rider's manual

SUMMARY OF MOTOR TROUBLES AND THEIR CAUSES 

The following information will serve as a guide when trying to locate the trouble in a motor that doesn't start or run right. 

Missing at High Speed 

Missing at high speed is usually due to poor carburetion—carburetor not properly adjusted or some of the vital parts loose or worn out.  It may also be due to any one of the following causes:

• Defective spark plugs—porcelain cracked, point gaps adjusted wrong, or fouled and in need of cleaning. Try new plugs. 
• Gasoline pipe clogged, or the cock partly closed. 
• Air vent (small hole) in gasoline filler cap plugged. 
• Sticking valves, due to carbon in valve guides. 
• Broken or weak valve springs. 
• Valve tappets improperly adjusted.  Read how to adjust valve tappets
• Circuit breaker points out of adjustment.  Read how to adjust points
• Circuit breaker points worn away. 
• Insufficient breaker lever spring tension. 
• Defective ignition coil. 
• Faulty condenser. 
• Discharged or broken down battery. 
• Loose wiring connections around battery, generator, ignition coil or circuit breaker. 
• Chafed or poor insulation on wiring, causing a short circuit. 

Missing at Low Speed 

May be due to any one of the causes described under "Missing at High Speed," but more likely due to one of the following: 

• Loose manifold connections. 
• Carburetor throttle shaft badly worn. Causing air leaks. 
• Carburetor loose on manifold. 
• Leaky cylinder head joints. 
• Spark plugs fouled, or their gaps improperly adjusted.
• Carburetor adjusted too lean or too rich. Read how to adjust carb
• Too much oil in crank case. 
• Poor compression, due to condition of piston rings and valves. 

If the Motor Refuses To Start

Failure to start is likely due to one of the following causes: 

• No gas in tank, or gas not getting to carburetor. 
• Carburetor loose on manifold. 
• Carburetor adjusted too lean. 
• Fouled spark plugs; clean and adjust. 
• Defective spark plugs; try new plugs. 
• No spark; see if a spark will jump from ends of plug cables. 
• Dirty, worn out, or improperly adjusted circuit breaker points. 
• Storage battery discharged; see if lamps will light. 
• Storage battery disconnected; look for loose wiring connections or broken wires; crank motor with ignition switch ON and see if ammeter indicates discharge, as it should, when circuit breaker makes contact. 
• Switch box not grounded.  
• Damaged insulation on wiring causing a short circuit. (Ammeter would indicate heavy discharge.) 
• Defective ignition coil. 
• Faulty condenser. 
• Valves or ignition timed wrong. 
• Clutch slips and prevents motor from being turned. 
• If it is impossible to turn the motor over with the starter, the trouble may be that the motor has been run without enough oil, until the pistons or piston rings have become seized in the cylinders. 
• See if you can locate any of the faults mentioned under "Missing at High (Low) Speed." 

If the Motor Shows Loss of Power and Overheats 

Overheating and loss of power are likely due to one of the following causes: 

• Spark lever does not advance all the way.
• Improper carburetor adjustment; probably adjusted too lean. 
• Excessive carbon deposits in combustion chambers. 
•  Poor compression due to bad valve seats, cylinders. 
• Weak exhaust valve springs. 
• Valve tappets not adjusted properly; 
• Defective spark plugs. 
• Clutch slips or brake drags. 
• Gear ratio too high for the locality or kind of service. package truck, be sure the machine is geared properly. 
• A poor grade of lubricating oil is being used. 
• Either too much or not enough oil in crank case; drain 
• Bad air leak around carburetor, manifold or cylinder head joints. 
• Muffler clogged; keep the slots cleaned out. 
• Valves or ignition improperly timed. 

Back Firing or Popping in the Carburetor can be caused by:

• Motor not sufficiently warm. 
• Carburetor choking device set in running position too soon. 
• Carburetor adjustment wrong; mixture too lean. 
• Inlet valve tappets adjusted too tightly. 
• Exhaust valve tappets adjusted too loosely. 
• Weak inlet valve springs. 
• Faulty ignition or ignition timed wrong. 
• Muffler clogged. 
• Circuit breaker points too close.

Tool Kit - Harley VL - Rider's Manual

Original Tool Kit Details for the VL

This how-to article applies to 1930-1936 Harley Davidson V series motorcycles and originally appeared in the rider's manual

The original tool kit included with a new VL was impressive and comprehensive

1—Registration card ; 2—Rider's Hand Book ; 3—Wrench for valve spring covers, valve tappets, and various small nuts ; 4—Socket wrench for cylinder head clamp screws ; 5—Wrench for axle nuts and rear brake hub nut ; 6—Spark plug wrench ; 7—Tire patches ; 8—Chain tool ; 9—Screw driver ; 10—Wrench for trans-mission clamp nuts and transmission oil filler plug ; 11 Wrench for valve tappets, also fits various small nuts ; 12—Wrench for rear axle adjusting screws and lock nuts, cylinder base nuts, gas pipe nuts„ and clutch pull rod lock nut ; 13—Wrench for footboard support rod nuts, front fork rocker plate stud nuts, oil pipe nuts, and various other nuts ; .14—Pliers; 15—Monkey wrench ; 16—Steering head lock keys ; 17—Ignition and lighting switch keys ; 18—Tool box key ; 19—Wrench for switch box terminal nuts, also feeler gauge for adjusting circuit breaker point gap ; 20—Rear chain repair links ; 21—Front chain repair links ; 22—Pump fasten-ing clips ; 23—Alemite grease gun ; 24•—Tire pump.

Carburetor Adjustment - Harley VL - Rider's Manual

Adjusting the Carburetor on a VL

This how-to article applies to 1930-1936 Harley Davidson V series motorcycles and originally appeared in the rider's manual

Don't continually tamper with the carburetor adjustment. If motor doesn't start and run right, first look for trouble elsewhere than in carburetor. Particularly, see that spark plugs are clean, properly adjusted, and that the porcelain core is not cracked in either plug. Try new plugs. Check the adjustment of valve tappets. Make sure that there is good compres-sion in both cylinders. See that the throttle and spark controls are properly adjusted. Also refer to "Summary of Motor Troubles and Their Causes"

Schebler De Luxe Carburetor
The Schebler carb was used on the 1930, 1931 and 1932 models. In 1933 Harley switched to Linkert carbs which look and function almost exactly the same.

1-Choke lever; OPEN position (all the way down) is normal running position of lever; 2-Air port shutter, open only for high speed; 3-Air cleaner; 4-Low speed needle lift lever; 5-Low speed adjusting needle; 6-High speed adjusting needle; 7-Lock screw; 8-Throttle stop screw, with which the closed throttle motor speed is regulated; 9-Throttle lever.

Carburetor Flooding 
Flooding may be caused by a leaky float needle valve (dirt or a poor seat), a faulty cork float, or a damaged bowl lock nut packing washer. If a solo machine equipped with "Jiffy Stand", is parked on an incline, or the stand is improperly adjusted or bent, allowing machine to lean farther than normal, the carburetor, regardless of its perfect condition might over-flow.

To Adjust Carburetor
Needle 5 (image above) on back side of carburetor adjusts the mixture for low and idling speeds. It controls carburetion up to 15 miles per hour, and affects it up to 25 miles per hour. This needle is mounted in a lever which is actuated by a cam on end of choke shaft. By means of this arrangement, when choke lever is raised for starting and warming up motor, the needle is also lifted away from its seat—enriching the gas mixture. When choke lever is moved to OPEN position, the needle is also moved back to its original position. When adjusting the low speed needle, choke lever must be at OPEN position (all the way down).

Needle 6 on forward side of carburetor, adjusts the mixture for high speed. It's adjustment affects carbureration above 15 miles per hour, and controls it entirely above 25 miles per hour. Both needles turn down (to right) to make mixture leaner at the re-spective speeds for which they adjust. Backing them out (to left) makes mixture richer. Both needles are held in whatever positions they may be turned to, by a spring and plunger which drops into .notches in the needle adjusting screw.

A carburetor once properly adjusted requires little, if any, re-adjusting. At the most, it should not be necessary to adjust the needles more than one or two notches richer or leaner to correct mixture for a change in weather conditions.

A carburetor that is badly out of adjustment may be re-adjusted as follows: 
Turn both the low and high speed needles all the way down (to right). Then, back up (to left) low speed needle about 2 turns, and high speed needle about 1.5 turns. With needles in these positions, motor will start, but mixture will probably be too rich. Start motor and after choke has been moved to OPEN position and motor is normally hot, correct the adjustment of both needles.

Adjust for low speed first. Turn needle 5 down (to right) one notch at a time until mixture becomes so lean that motor misses and is incliner' to stop; then, back needle up seven to ten notches or until motor hits regularly with throttle closed and spark advanced. Next, adjust throttle stop screw 8 as may be necessary to make motor idle at proper speed with throttle closed. Turning screw to right makes motor idle faster. Turning screw to left makes motor idle slower.

Don't idle a motor at the slowest possible speed, because an extremely slow idling adjustment causes hard starting. Before making this idling adjustment, be sure control is adjusted to fully close throttle.

After low speed adjustments have been completed, run machine on the road to make high speed adjustment. Run at various speeds between 20 miles per hour and wide open. Have spark fully advanced. Turn high speed needle 6 down (to right) a little at a time until mixture becomes so lean that motor doesn't respond to throttle, and backfires (spits) through carburetor; then, back needle up a notch at a time until motor responds to throttle, accelerates without back-firing (spitting), and hits evenly at high speeds or with wide open throttle.

Auxiliary Air Port
When driving with wide open throttle, the speed of machine can usually be increased a little by opening auxiliary air port in air cleaner connection. Moving shutter 2 (image above) upward opens port. Shutter should be kept- in closed position for all ordinary service.

Ignition Points Adjustment - Harley VL - Rider's Manual

Adjusting the Ignition Circuit Breaker Points on a VL 

This how-to article applies to 1930-1936 Harley Davidson V series motorcycles and originally appeared in the rider's manual

To clean points, use a tungsten point file or a piece of fine sand-paper. To adjust points, turn motor to a position where cam 8 (see image below) is holding the points at their widest opening, then loosen adjustment lock screws 5, and shift contact point 3 as necessary to adjust the gap between the points to .020 to .024 inch 

If at any time it becomes necessary to take the circuit breaker and timer assembly apart, before doing so, inspect for a file mark across the edge of assembly, indicating the original factory setting. If none is found, make one to enable reassembling as originally set, thus maintaining correct timing.

Circuit Breaker 

1-Timing mark; 2-Breaker cover re-timer; 3-Adjustable contact point; 4-Breaker lever contact point; 5-Contact point adjustment lock screws; 6-Breaker lever; 7-Condenser; 8-Cam; 9-Adjustable contact point base; 10-Friction spring which aids screws 5 in holding point base 9 tight, thus maintaining correct adjustment; 11-Breaker lever spring

Valve Tappet Adjustment - Harley VL - Rider's Manual -

Adjusting the Valves on a VL

This how-to article applies to 1930-1936 Harley Davidson V series motorcycles and originally appeared in the rider's manual

To get the maximum power and speed from a motor, keep valve tappets properly adjusted. They must be adjusted after grinding valves, and should be inspected and if necessary, re-adjusted about every 1000 miles thereafter. The important things to be remembered when adjusting tappets are:

• Motor must be cold.
• To be sure that a valve is fully closed and its tappets at the lowest position when adjusting clearance, turn motor until the like valve in the other cylinder is held wide open.
• The intake valves are those nearest the carburetor.
• Intake should have .004 to .005 inch clearance between inlet valve stems and tappets
• Exhaust should have .006 to .007 inch clearance between exhaust valve stems and tappets
• Before replacing a valve spring cover, inspect the paper gasket between cover and tappet bushing. If broken or damaged, fit a new gasket to prevent an oil leak at this point.

To adjust a tappet, loosen lock nut slightly; then turn adjusting screw in or out of tappet body as may be necessary to obtain proper adjustment. When adjustment is completed, securely tighten lock nut.

1-Tappet adjusting screw; 2-Lock nut; 3-Tappet; 4-Valve stem.