Adjusting the Clutch on a VL
This how-to article applies to 1930-1936 Harley Davidson V series motorcycles and originally appeared in the rider's manual
When the transmission and shifter control joints are properly lubricated, hard shifting and clashing of gears when shifting are almost invariably due to improper clutch adjustments rather than trouble in the transmission.
Clutch controls pictured:
1-Footpedal friction discs; 2-Clutch footpedal; 3-Clutch footpedal rod; 4-Lock nut; 5-Rod end (clevis); 6-Clevis pin connects rod 3 to operating lever 7; 7-Clutch operating lever; 8-Clutch pull rod; 9-Pull rod adjusting nut; 10-Lock nut; 11-Clutch spring tension adjusting screw (6 of these screws).
The need for attention to clutch and controls will be indicated by clutch failing to hold under a load, or dragging when in re-leased position. In either case, the first thing to check is the clutch pull rod adjustment. Nearly all clutch troubles are due to the pull rod becoming out of proper adjustment.
To Adjust Clutch Pull Rod This adjustment is made with adjusting nut 9 and lock nut 10 on end of pull rod 8 (Illus. 8), which are exposed when clutch cover is removed from chainguard.
Disconnect and remove clutch footpedal rod 3 from end of clutch operating lever 7. Loosen lock nut 10, and adjust nut 9 so that end of operating lever 7 has 3/8 to /inch free movement back and forth.
- If lever has too much free movement, turn adjusting nut 9 inward (to right).
- If lever has too little free movement, turn nut 9 out (to left).
Don't fail to tighten lock nut 10 after adjustment is completed.
CAUTION
- If operating lever 7 has no free movement as explained above, clutch will not hold properly.
- If too much free movement is allowed, clutch will drag when in released position, and consequently the gears will shift hard, clash, and eventually become damaged.
After pull rod adjustment is completed, adjust the length of footpedal rod 3, and connect it to operating lever 7. This adjustment is made by loose-ening lock nut 4, and turning rod end 5 further on or off rod. Adjust length of this rod so that with footpedal rocked all the way forward and operating lever in forwar4d position, rod is about 1/16 inch too short to correctly align the clevis pin holes in rod end and end of operating lever. Then, rock pedal back slightly to align holes, and insert clevis pin.
To Adjust Clutch Spring Tension If clutch slips after pull rod and footpedal rod adjustments are correct, increase spring tension on clutch discs by turning to the right the six adjust-ing screws 11 (Illus. 8) in face of clutch.
Each screw can be brought op-posite hole in chain guard as follows: put the machine in gear, and with the clutch disengaged, turn rear wheel slowly. As each screw is in position to adjust, engage the clutch. Turn each of the six screws the same amount in order to keep all the springs adjusted to equal tension. Turn them exactly one-half turn at a time, because at each half turn, projections on screw heads drop into slots, locking the adjustment.
Usually one-half turn of each screw is sufficient to remedy a clutch that slips. Don't increase spring tension any more than necessary. Test clutch after each half turn of screws.
To Adjust Clutch Footpedal Friction The clutch footpedal is fitted with friction discs 1 (Illus. 8) and a spring which will hold it in any position. Some pressure with the foot should be required to rock the pedal either forward or backward. If the pedal does not hold properly, when rocked backward and foot removed from it, increase the spring tension on friction discs. If too much effort is required to rock pedal backward or forward, decrease spring tension. Adjustment is made with adjusting nut on end of footpedal shaft.
To Adjust Gear Shifter Lever When the gear shifter lever is correctly adjusted, it will stand about 1/16 to 1/32 inch from the end of slot in shifter gate when the gears are shifted into HIGH.
This adjustment must be correct, otherwise gears will not mesh fully, gear locking device will not align properly, and difficulty will be experienced in engaging the clutch after shifting. To adjust, disconnect shifter rod where it connects to shifter lever, and then shorten or lengthen the rod as may be necessary, by loosening lock nut and turning rod end farther on or off rod.
Care of Drive Chains Inspect the adjustment of chains every week and re-adjust them, if necessary. Adjustment of front chain can be checked through inspection hole provided in front chain guard. Chains should not be allowed to run loose enough to strike the chain guards, because when that loose, they cause machine to jerk when running at low speed, and there is excessive wear on chains and sprockets. Adjust chains so that they have about 1/2 inch free movement up and down, midway between sprockets. Do not adjust tighter, because running chains too tight is even more harmful than running them too loose.
As chains stretch and wear in service, they will run tighter at one point on the sprockets than at another; always check the adjustment at the tightest point.
Inspect chains occasionally for links in bad condition. If any are found, make repairs or renew the chain. The rear chain can be taken apart and removed after locating and taking out the spring locked connecting link. The front chain is not, however, originally provided with such a connecting link and unless one has at sometime been fitted in making repairs, it will be necessary to remove the engine sprocket before chain can be taken off.
At least every 1000 miles, brush off dirt that has accumulated on rear chain, and apply Harley-Davidson Chain Lubricant to its surface. The composition of this lubricant is such that it will work into the chain bearings. The front chain is supplied with necessary lubrication by the mechanical oil pump.
